Timing belt and clutch: when to replace them and what did it cost you?

The timing drive and the clutch are among the most expensive routine repairs, and almost everyone asks about them when buying a used car. But "the manufacturer says X kilometres" is not enough in practice. Intervals differ by engine, and so does how worn a particular car is.

Timing belt. The manufacturer prescribes replacement by kilometres and by years, whichever comes first. A car that is driven little may be due earlier than the odometer suggests. The tensioner, guide pulleys and often the water pump are normally replaced together with the belt. You find the interval in the service plan of the specific car. On some engines the belt runs in oil and needs the exact type of oil and regular oil changes.

Timing chain. It is meant to last long, but on some engines it stretches earlier. A typical symptom is a short rattle after a cold start. Replacing a chain is usually dearer than replacing a belt because it takes more work.

Clutch. Its life depends a lot on how the car was driven: town driving, towing a trailer and frequent pulling away wear it faster than motorway miles. Signs of wear are slipping under acceleration in a higher gear, biting high up at the end of the pedal travel and a smell of burnt lining. On diesels and stronger petrol engines the dual-mass flywheel is often replaced at the same time. It makes itself known with knocking and vibration when pulling away and when the engine is switched off.

When buying a used car, ask for the last timing drive replacement to be documented by an invoice with the mileage and date. A stamp without details says little. If the paperwork is missing, count the replacement into the price of the car. More in the pre-purchase checklist.

Please write: what car and engine, at what mileage and age you replaced the timing drive or clutch, what was replaced and how much it cost (and whether at a franchised or an independent garage). Numbers like that give others a better picture than any table.